I had been dreaming of thru-hiking the Pacific Crest Trail
(PCT) for the last 6 years. I postponed it twice. Once to thru-hike the
Appalachian Trail (AT) in 2001. And again to spend five months visiting 22
countries in Eastern Europe in 2004. By 2006 I couldn't wait any longer, so I
completed the dream and I have a few lousy photos to prove it.
I had never set foot on the PCT and I had seen few pictures of
it before I started. In fact, I barely looked at the maps. I wanted every step to be unique and
new. However, I got lost so many times in Washington that I started to doubt the
benefits of this "go-into-it-blind" strategy.
But we eventually got out of the snow of Washington, enjoyed
the friendly mosquitoes of Oregon, and the wacky folks in California.
Ultimately Maiu Reismann and I made it to the Mexican
border. The 2,650 mile backpacking trip
took under four months - June 23 to October 21. Glen Van Peski, the founder of
Gossamer Gear, had hiked with us a week
before and he generously met us at the border. He took more pictures of us than a
photographer takes for the Sports Illustrated Swimsuit Edition.
When I arrived at the Mexican border I was overrun by emotion.
It's really moving to see Mexicans hopping over the fence only to get gunned
down by the overly zealous Minutemen.
We stood on the monument, doing silly acts that had the Border
Patrol shaking their heads in dismay. I've uploaded a
video of our silly behavior on the right.
The PCT was easier than AT for a few reasons:
Although the AT was 25% shorter than the PCT, the
AT was steeper in many parts.
Although the PCT was higher and drier than the AT,
the PCT's views and scenery surpassed the AT, offering more rewards per
mile.
The PCT was drier than the AT (8 hours of rain vs.
300 hours of rain), allowing for more visibility and comfort.
Although the AT had generous people everywhere, I loved
the isolation and solitude of the PCT, especially going south.
On the other hand, for Maiu, the PCT was rough. She had never
hiked far in her life. Maiu is from Estonia, a country that is less than 150
miles wide. The PCT is 2,650 miles long. The isolation, the uncertainty, and the
danger of the trail tormented her throughout the journey. She never truly relaxed until she
was about 150 miles from the Mexican border.
Nevertheless, she persevered with stoic bravery. Looking back,
she admits that she had more fun than working in an office. I am so proud
that she is the first Estonian, male or female, to thru-hike the PCT. Never mind
that she's probably the first Estonian to ever hear about the PCT.
Going southbound on the PCT is unconventional, just like going
south on the AT.I just finished
an article about walking south that will be published in the
PCT
Communicator. The article explains why 95% of thru-hikers hike north on the PCT. It also
uncovers the unknown benefits of going south.
We ultimately reintegrated into society after taking a
shower. I returned to Estonia with Maiu, but my dad's death pulled me
back to San Francisco, where I have been for the last few months. I've
been writing my next book (on Eastern Europe) and preparing for my next
adventure: to yo-yo Continental Divide Trail!
I hope you've enjoyed my PCT journal. If you enjoy the
way I write, please buy my book. If you
don't like the way I write, then why the hell did you read all the way
to here?!
Happy trails,
Francis Tapon
Many people ask how we managed to hike 2,650 miles in under four
months. I've always told them that the secret was carrying super light weight
gear, eating good nutrition, taking only 10 zero days, and hiking from sunrise to sunset.
Some don't buy the explanation and probe further. Once they sift through the 1,000 photos
of the journey, they finally come across this incriminating one. "Ha!
Gotcha!" they declare. "That's the real secret!"
Hey, I'm not the only guilty party in this crime...
OK, yes I road it more than her. But my pack was heavier so I deserved
it.
Listen to Maiu
on Oct 21 talking about how she was so excited the night before we
finished that she could barely sleep!
Glen Van Peski, the founder of Gossamer Gear, met us at the border and
took most of these shots. He also brought Belgian dark chocolate,
sparkling apple/grape cider, and champagne glasses! Thank you Glen for
the awesome trail magic!
It was nice to sit down!
Glen at first was concerned that the plastic cups he brought had stains
on them. Then he thought, "Wait, these are thru-hikers! They won't
care!"
I had the energy to keep going south, but this damn wall was in the way!
I guess that means I just have to do the Continental Divide Trail next!
Below is a 30 second video of me trying to make a run for the border
only to find an obstacle in the way that stopped me cold.
I'm climbing the wall at the US-Mexican border near Campo. A guard
told me to be careful because just a couple of days before an American woman who
tried to climb the wall cut off one of her fingers on the razor sharp
edges at the top of the wall. Not needing children anytime soon, I did the splits over the wall. Unfortunately, I walked away unscathed.