I've backpacked almost 2,000 miles,
nearly the length of the Appalachian Trail, and I have yet to bump into
a single backpacker. Not one for 2.5 months.
In New Mexico I saw one day hiker with a dog. In Colorado I met two
snowmobilers (in the San Juans) and two skiers (in the Rocky Mt. Nat'l
Park). Nobody in Wyoming, so far.
However, now that I'm entering the Grand Teton National Park, I expect
to find a few mountaineers who will pull out their cell phones and place
the all important victory call.
BREAKING THE CAMERA... AGAIN!
I was planning to climb take a detour off the Continental Divide Trail,
head towards the real Divide, and summit the tallest mountain in Wyoming
(Gannett Peak). It's 13,800 feet high and a mountain guide told me, "I
wouldn't do it without crampons, an ice axe, and a strong partner."
Great, I have none of the above, unless you count my Guardian Angel.
I decided to go for it anyway. I was pushing through the snow at 11,000
feet when I saw a beautiful frozen lake. I placed my camera on a rock
and set the timer. As I started to move to get into the picture, the
camera started to fall toward a puddle of water. I lunged and grabbed
the camera forcefully. A bit too forcefully...
I put too much pressure on the extended lens, jamming it against the
rock. The mechanism broke so I was, once again, camera-less. The timing
was horrible. It was a beautiful day - a perfect day to summit Gannett
Peak. A perfect day to trek across glaciers with hidden crevasses. A
perfect day to traverse the Continental Divide, camp above the tree
line, and freeze your ass off. A perfect day to die, but get some good
photos in the process.
After much thought, I concluded that there's little point in dying on a
mountain if you don't leave a few cool pictures behind.
I backed down and resolved to visit
Gannett Peak on my southbound journey in August. By then the
crevasses should be wide open and thunderstorms will be booming away!
Sweet!
MR. MAGOO LUCK, PART 1
Instead of following the Divide, I followed the CDT which goes along the
Green River in the Wind River Wilderness. That path takes you through
the most beautiful valley I have seen on the CDT. It has granite
monoliths that rival the ones in Yosemite Valley and the only way to see
it is by walking there. I lamented that I didn't have a camera to take a
few amateurish shots.
Just as I was exiting the valley, I saw a digital camera lying on a
rock. Clearly, someone lost it. I'm not sure how long it was lying
there, but I was amazed that it worked. I took a few amateurish shots.
Here's a professional one.
MR. MAGOO LUCK, PART 2
The second lucky break was when I was traversing the Gros Ventre
Wilderness. I was breaking away from the CDT to get to Grand Teton
National Park. The CDT doesn't go there, but I want to hike through it
on my way to Canada. I'll take the CDT on the way back. However, getting
to the Tetons would be tricky since I didn't have a detailed map of the
Gros Ventre Wilderness. I just had a state map, which would make the
typical outdoorsman laugh so hard that he would have to hold onto his
gros ventre (means "fat belly" in French).
I resolved to hike west and climb over any mountain in my way. However,
as I walking up a forest service road, a truck was coming down. The
driver was surprised to see me in this deserted place. He confirmed that
I was going the right way. Realizing that I was attempting a 50 mile
traverse without a decent map, he took pity on me and gave me his map.
I was lucky to have a map and I had no trouble getting to the Tetons!
The weather is perfect too!
My next email will deal with a light topic: Being Human! It's something
I've been mulling over for the last few months...
SPONSOR SPOTLIGHT: GOLITE
GoLite has been supporting my adventures since 2001 and I'm quite
grateful. They're a responsible company that makes extraordinary outdoor
gear. On this trip they're making sure I don't run around naked. Here's
what I am using:
* Ether Wind Jacket: At 3.5 ounces, the Ether name is accurate. It
protects me from bugs and the wind.
* Whim Pants: I can't believe how tough these 4 oz pants are. I've
bushwhacked through so much thorny brush in New Mexico, slogged through
icy snow in Colorado, and press through most of Wyoming, yet it just has
a few small holes. It's crazy. And it's crazy light too.
* DriMove Shirt: It's made of recycled materials, provides 50 SPF, dries
fast, and weighs nearly nothing.
* Stride Shorts: Made of Lycra and nylon, they're similar to biker
shorts, without the funny butt pad. I have yet to have any chafing
problems, so that makes me smile.
* Chrome Dome Umbrella: GoLite redesigned it for 2007 and it weighs over
20% less than the previous model. It's just 8 oz and allows me to carry
less water and sunscreen on those hot days. Oh, and it's waterproof too!
:)
Please visit
http://GoLite.com
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10 steps on how to do a contiguous CDT
thru-hike via the Grand Teton National Park.
First, realize that you'll be missing the Parting of
the Waters. Although this is a pity, it's worth doing this alternate
route through the Tetons to sneak in an extra National Park in the
journey! Buy the National Geographic Trails Illustrated map and follow
these 10 steps:
- At the Green River in the Wind River Range, break
away from the trail and head west into the Gros Ventre Wilderness.
- There are many paths you can take, but try to
pick one that drops you into Jackson, Wyoming. The Cache Creek Trail
#3003 and the West Game Creek Trail #3025 both drop you into
Jackson. If you prefer resupplying in Wilson (which is on the way),
you can avoid Jackson by going over Snow King Mountain).
- Road walk from Jackson to Wilson via Hwy 22
(about 5 miles).
- When you get to Wilson, I recommend taking the
road north for 4 miles, and then you'll get to trail #3001 (Phillips
Canyon). Another option is to stay on Hwy 22 for another 4 miles
west of Wilson and then grab the trail there which goes north into the Phillips Ridge.
- Stay north following the Teton Crest Trail.
- Pass Sunset Lake in the Alaska Basin and go over
Hurricane Pass.
- Pass the Grand Teton and head to Lake Solitude.
- At Lake Solitude, bushwhack northwest for 3 miles
(so you get on the crest) and then drop into
the Granite Basin, where a find a nice trail that heads north, and
eventually go
over Jackass Pass.
- Follow the Berry Creek Trail until you get to
Grassy Lake Road.
- Once you get to the highway, near Flagg Ranch,
you will have a couple of ways to enter into Yellowstone National Park.
Have fun!
Although the temps were warm, there was still plenty of snow in mid-June
in the Tetons. Notice the trail signs that are mostly buried in snow.
Astonishing Statistic: After 2,000 miles and nearly 3 months of
hiking, I run into my first backpackers. That's like walking the entire
Appalachian Trail and not running into one backpacker. Yes, I was quite
alone! In New Mexico I saw one day hiker, in Colorado I saw two
snowmobilers and two skiers, and in Wyoming I didn't see anyone until I
saw these guys in the northern part of the state.
I did a fun traverse across the Tetons. For more info about the exact
route, contact me.
I left the Grand Teton National Park to walk into another National Park:
Yellowstone.
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